DIY Home Landscapers: What YOU should be doing in YOUR yard this week!

It’s a great time of the year to be a landscaper. The temperatures are finally getting warmer, the leaves are ready to come out and suddenly our lawns are beginning to show a greenish tint!

Last week we tuned up our hand tools and power equipment, raked and fertilized our lawns and finally did that soil test that I have been bugging you about. Your muscle soreness should be subsiding as the chore of raking reminded us that maybe we should start actually using our gym memberships. It’s still a week or so early for us to starting thinking about mulch so I am going to take it easy on you this week.. We are going to try a quick an easy soil test that only takes 15-20 minutes and the results are instant. I borrowed this from my friend, Phil Nauta, who is the most knowledgeable person I have ever met when it comes to soil and growing vegetables. Here goes…

Using that freshly sharpened spade, pick a random spot in the yard and dig a hole 1 foot long, 1 foot wide and 1 foot deep. Take the following observations…

Was it easy to dig the hole or would you compare the chore to digging through concrete?

Hopefully the chore was easy and you uncovered dark, rich soil brimming with organic matter and full of life. Ideally we want our soil to be dark brown, easily form into a ball, then break apart with a gentle squeezing of the hand.

Take a good sniff!

We want our dirt to have the smell of the forest floor which means that our soil is draining well. Should you experience any foul odor similar to rotten eggs, it’s a sure sign that you have drainage problems.

How much life do you see?

Healthy soil will have at least 10 earth worms moving around and several other life forms. Lack of insects means lack of organic matter and nutrients.

How deep are the roots???

Grass roots should extend at least an inch into the soil. Shallow roots mean compacted soil and lack of organic matter.

A gorgeous lawn, healthy shrubs and succulent vegetables have one thing in common. HEALTHY SOIL full of organic material. A common thread in all of my articles is the term “Compost Pile”. I highly recommend having a compost pile where you can recycle everything from egg shells to leaves. Composting is an all natural process that breaks down organic material back into a rich, fluffy, topsoil like material that you can add to your lawn and garden to enrich your existing soil. Fresh compost will correct most, if not all, of the soil deficiencies listed above. If you don’t have access to a compost pile, you can buy compost in any garden center, nursery or hardware store. Much, much more on compost in later articles.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them in the comment section below. I answer questions as quickly as possible.

That’s it for this week! If you need me to come to your property and analyze your soil, professionally mow your lawn or completely make over your existing property, contact me in any of the following ways…

Rob Lundholm
Lundholm Landscaping
Office 609-898-9136
Mobile/text 609-722-1814
Email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

DIY Home Landscapers: What YOU should be doing in YOUR yard!

My calendar says late March but my thermometer says it’s still February. I don’t know about you, but I am ready for warm temperatures, long days and sunshine. With the nice weather comes our favorite time of the year… Landscaping Time!

Here’s a couple of quick tips on what you should be doing in your yard this week…

1. Power Equipment Tune Up.

The official start of my landscaping season begins with making sure that my power equipment is in proper working order. A little bit of maintenance now can lead to a stress free season of yard work! I start with my lawn mowers. I thoroughly drain all engine oil, replace my oil filters and fill with the manufacturers recommended oil. Next I remove and replace the spark plugs and thoroughly lubricate all moving parts including axles, cables, carburetor and controls. I prefer white lithium spray grease because it is drier than normal household lubricants and doesn’t seem to attract dirt and debris. My next job is to remove,inspect and clean the air filters. Providing clean air to the engine insures peak performance through the hot mowing season. Finally, I remove the blades, thoroughly clean the underside of the mowing deck, coat the deck with a non stick lubricant(cooking spray works best for me) and install a sharp blade. Next up are my 2 cycle engines which consist of my string trimmers, edgers, blowers, hedge trimmers and chain saws. These engines require air filter cleaning and/or replacement, new spark plugs and thoroughly cleaning and lubricating the entire machine.

2. Hand Tool Maintenance.

My collection of hand tools is large and includes everything from my favorite pair of pruning shears to my 48″ level headed grading rake. I personally inspect every piece of equipment looking for damaged parts or something that might break and cause a delay in my work day. I make sure all surfaces are clean and free of caked up dirt and debris from the previous season. Once the tools are clean I sharpen every single blade and the cutting edge of all shovels. A sharp clean shovel will outperform a dirty one every day of the week. My shovels are not sharpened to the point where they will be dangerous but a nice clean edge does wonders. Finally I spray all metal surfaces and moving parts with spray lubricant which helps to keep tools clean as well as inhibits rust.

3. Soil Testing.

Some readers may have never heard of a soil test but it’s the single most important task in maintaining a healthy lawn. A soil test is performed by gathering a sampling of the soil from around your property, sending it to a lab and having it analyzed. My primary reason for a soil test is checking the pH level of the soil. If soil pH is off in any direction,it could mean the difference between a SHOW LAWN and a disaster! I go into great detail on soil testing in a 10 step series that I published last year titled “UPDATED: Ten Insider Secrets to a Perfect Lawn”. All of these 10 steps should be listed in the right hand margin. I recommend reading it over at your leisure.

4. Rake your Lawn

Now is the ideal time to wake up that lawn. For best results, I recommend using a spring tine rake. These are rakes with thin metal tines attached to springs which provide a pressurized combing of the grass and root zone. This gentle stroke stimulates the grass plants. Spring tine rakes are great for raking up twigs from the surface of the lawn as well as removing any thatch that may have built up over the winter. After raking the entire lawn and placing all of the debris in your compost bin(much more on compost in future blogs), cut your grass using one of the lower settings on your lawn mower. If the gentle raking doesn’t wake up your lawn,the first buzz of the season will!

5. Feeding

Early spring lawn feeding is the final step in getting the chlorophyll moving and the green up process. For my regular readers, you know that I do not advocate any type of “5 or 6 or however many step plan”! These programs only encourage grass to grow rapidly and become green which always results in hot weather brown out or the need for excessive watering. For more detailed information on my recommendations for feeding a lawn, read my series “UPDATED: Ten Insider Secrets to a Perfect Lawn” listed in the right hand margin. I recommend bio nutritional fertilizers which are geared towards building healthy soils, deep root systems and strong immune systems to naturally resists pests and disease through the use of beneficial bacteria. For fast green up in the spring, I use straight urea which is available from feed supplies and most nurseries.

That should keep you busy for this week! Now get out there and get dirty!!!

If you would like to have these landscaping tips delivered directly to your email inbox, click on the link in the right hand margin titled “Landscaping Tips Delivered”. As soon I hit the publish key, these blogs are delivered right to your email inbox.

As always if you have a landscape/gardening question or have a project in mind, contact me in any of the following ways or post a comment below…

Rob Lundholm
Lundholm Landscaping
Office 609-898-9136
Mobile/Text 609-722-1814
Fax 609-770-3035
P.O. Box 1066
Cape May, NJ 08204
Lundholmlandscaping.com

Don’t Even Think About Buying a Snow Thrower Until You Read This…

(Photo Courtesy of Severe NJ Weather)

It’s freezing cold outside, the ground is frozen and I noticed that snow is in the forecast!

As a proven expert in the field of all things LANDSCAPING, I thought it would be a great time to share my knowledge of snow throwers.  It’s my civic duty to make sure that you are fully educated when making a snow thrower purchase. Should you have any further questions, never hesitate to contact me!  For now, keep reading…

I’m sure that I don’t need to remind anyone about the winter of 2010. Snow, Snow, then a little more snow. I still have blisters and my lower back has not yet fully recovered. It was during this time, that I realized that my current snow removal equipment was way out its league. I had to reload and switch to the big guns.

Living at the Jersey Cape has its own set of challenges when it comes to snow removal. We are at the mercy of the Delaware Bay. I keep track of the water temperature and the effects that it has on crossing weather systems(I know, I am such a weather nerd). As snow storms approach, if the Delaware Bay water temperature is above 40 degrees, the storms seem to start out as snow, then gradually transition to rain. Thus resulting in the snow washing away. On the other hand, when the water temperature is below 40 degrees things can get UGLY… fast.

If you’ve had it with shoveling snow, and are ready to invest in a snow thrower, keep reading as we take an in depth look at the different types of snow throwers on the market and which one will be get you the most bang for your buck.

A single stage snow thrower refers to a single stage model which has a serious of plastic or metal blades with rubber edges. The blades sweep up the snow and throw it through a centrally mounted chute in one quick motion. Most are equipped with a deflector chute which can easily be aimed within a 180 degree radius. Perfect for pavers, pavement or concrete.  Snow throwers are not recommended for gravel or stone driveways… for obvious reasons.   Here are a few different styles of snow throwers.

(Photo courtesy of Ryobi)

Leaf Blowers.  That’s right, my leaf blower is an exceptional tool for moving light fluffy snow. Capable of effectively blowing up to 3 inches of light snow, leaf blowers have been used for years. Both hand held and back pack models work extremely well.  Since we don’t usually get much light fluffy snow, you probably would have never imagined such a use for a tool that you already have. Price Range $0.00(if you already have one) up to $350.00.

(Photo Compliments of Toro)

Power Shovel. A power shovel is exactly that, a power shovel. About the size of a snow shovel, these hand held machines require almost no maintenance and have a small rotating blade that throws the snow forward. Power shovels are electric powered, extremely light weight(anyone can use one) and are recommended for use on porches, patios, small sidewalks and are effective up to 2 inches of snow. Perfect for light fluffy snow, but leave it in the closet for the wet, heavy stuff as you’ll spend more time resetting your circuit breaker than you will moving snow. Expect to spend up $125.00 and I recommend the Toro or the Craftsman.

(Photo Compliments of Toro)

Single Stage Electric. The next step up in snow throwers is the single stage, electric snow thrower. Motor sizes range from 10 to 12 amperes with clearing widths range from 16″ to 20″ and offer the same environmentally friendly ease of the power broom with just a bit more UMPH! Equipped with a small set of wheels in the back, this type of machine is easily maneuverable and handles light, fluffy snow up to 6 inches. Features include an adjustable chute, extremely low maintenance and easily stores in the hall closet. Not recommended for heavy snow. You won’t go wrong buying the Toro, MTD or Craftsman models. You’ll need around $300.00 and a good 12 gauge extension cord(HINT: make sure to buy enough 12 guage extension cord to reach the end of your driveway).

(Photo Compliments of Toro)

Gas Powered Single Stage. This model is the Cadillac of single stage snow throwers. With clearing widths of 18-24 inches, the 2 cycle engines range from 3 to 6 horsepower. Still light and maneuverable, the single stage gas versions pack a lot more punch than the smaller, electric models and are not limited by the length of the extension cord. The first time I tried one of these, I was moving 5 inches of new snow with a layer of slush on the bottom. This machine was so strong that I had to readjust the chute as it was blowing snow and slush 20 feet into the air. This machine pulls itself along and is a beast in up to 8 inches of snow. These models are relatively light weight with a folding handle and take up very little space in the shed or garage. The models that I’ve used have all been electric start and started with ease. This series is a great homeowner model for Jersey Cape snows. These models are NOT designed or built for constant every day use. I recommend Toro, Honda, Troy Built and Craftsman and are all in the $400.00-$650.00 price range.

Two Stage Snow Blowers have a 2 stage blade system designed to get snow and ice out of the way quickly. The first series of blades are auger style, serrated blades that pick snow up from the sidewalk and move the snow into the second stage. Stage two is an impeller that blows the snow through the discharge chute to the desired location. Two stage units are perfect for any surface(including stone and gravel) and work well when dealing with inclines. Almost all are self propelled with 6 or more forward speeds and no fewer than 2 reverse speeds. Snow blowers range in size from just a few horsepower up to heavy duty, Diesel powered machines that clear roads, runways or train tracks.

Since none of us will be clearing runways or train tracks in the near future, I’ll focus this report on homeowner and light commercial applications. Two stage machines mean BUSINESS and can do SERIOUS TO DAMAGE if not operated properly. Always read the owners manual and consult a professional should you feel hesitant or over matched.

(Photo Compliments of Toro)

Entry level of two stage snow throwers are equipped with 4-6 horsepower with 20-24 inch clearing path model. These models are on the smaller side, self propelled, store easily and are equipped with some form of electric start. Perfect for up to 8 inches of snowfall, this unit is the most popular in the Cape May area. Look for models that are single hand operation which allow you to adjust the discharge chute without stopping the machine. Price Range $450-$650. Preferred models are Craftsman, John Deere, Troy Built, Honda, Ariens and Cub Cadet.

(Photo Compliments of Toro)

Light commercial model snow blowers range from 8 to 10 horsepower with clearing paths of 24-30 inches. This clean running, 4 stage engine line is relatively heavy duty and are very popular with professionals. Sized to clear sidewalks and driveways, these units include larger tires and are often equipped with chains and/or weights for added traction(weights and chains are also available as after market add ons). Some of the newest models replace with wheels with a Track Drive. The most impressive feature of this line of snow blowers is the ability to break through the ice and mounds of snow that are left behind by Municipal snow plows! When shopping in this size category, look for models that are equipped with built-in lights. You may not do much snow blowing at night but it’s a convenient feature in a pinch. For those of us without price restraints, heated grips and power steering are also available! Price Range $800-$1,200. Preferred models are Craftsman, John Deere, Troy Built, Honda, Ariens and Cub Cadet.

(Photo compliments of Craftsman)

Lawn Tractor Mounted Snow Blowers. For those fortunate enough to own a heavy duty lawn or garden tractor, many manufacturers make snow blowers that mount directly to the front and connect to the blade drive pulley. These models are very similar in size and ability to the light commercial line and can be very handy! Models vary depending on manufacturer and the overall size and weight of your lawn tractor. I recommend installing this unit on your tractor immediately following the mowing season. The conversion process takes time and is more enjoyable on a late fall afternoon as opposed to the night before a snowfall. Consult the manufacturer of your lawn tractor as to the availability and avoid buying “Universal” models. Lawn tractor mounted snow throwers always require a weight kit and chains and are useless without both so remember to factor in these additional costs when purchasing. Price range based on size and model with all kinds of handy options(see enclosed cab picture above).

A few things to consider when owning a gas snow removal machine. Always drain all fuel from the tank. If you don’t have means to drain the tank, add a fuel stabilizer to keep gas from going stale and clogging the injectors. Always keep your eye on the weather and make sure your machine is in proper working order prior to a snowfall.

As always, don’t overwork yourself and call me if you need me. Office 609-898-9136, Cell or Text 609-722-1814 or email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

Landscape Design Made Simple: The Final Plan!

Thanks again for checking back in with us. As a quick refresher, I decided to take readers into my mind as I do one our our patented “Extreme Landscape Makeover” designs. Today’s article deals with the final presentation of our latest project. This project is unique because not only am I taking you inside my mind as I design a landscape from scratch but I am also taking you into my own back yard. This outdoor fireplace/garden/entertaining area is something that I have been thinking about for quite some time. It’s something that we will be completing over the next 6 weeks, just prior to our spring rush!

If you have been living under a rock and you are not up to speed on this project, check the right hand margin and read over the three previous articles titled “Landscape Design Made Simple”.

We are at the stage where I take my culmination of measurements, ideas and customer needs and put them in the form of a final design. In the past I would sit down with my t square and wide array of drafting tools and spend hours creating a hand drawn, top view landscape design. The photo below illustrates my actual drawing.

I know what you are thinking… Pretty cool!!

But it does not really get my point across. Being the innovator that I am, I decided to take my design skill set to a whole new level. Introducing my first ever computer design!!!

Check it out!!!

This process was done completely from scratch using a CAD program called Google Sketchup.

I am currently shopping for programs specifically designed for Landscape Design where I will take a picture of the customers house and build a virtual landscape right into the photo!!

This computer generated image gives my customers an exact scale model of what I have in mind! I can easily make changes, additions, deletions and even project plant growth.

From here we can use the combination of design formats to get started. Phase 1 will consist of excavating the grass in the new planting areas, installing the foundation for the fireplace as well as doing infra-structure work for electrical, irrigation, outdoor speakers and landscape lighting. Stay tuned!!

Tired of searching for my blogs and articles??? Join the hundreds of other subscribers by simply clicking on the tab in the right margin titled “Landscaping Tips Delivered”. Future blogs and articles will be delivered to your email inbox the instant they are published!

If you are interested in your own computer based landscape design, have a landscape concern, question or anything, post your questions in the comment section below or contact me in any of the following ways…

Rob Lundholm
Lundholm Landscaping
Office 609-898-9136
Cell/text 609-722-1814
Fax 609-770-3035
Email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

Thanks again!

SNOW and ICE are in the Forecast!! Everything You’ll Need to Know About Salting Your Driveway and Walkways..

Snow and Ice are on their way.  I thought it would be a great time to bring my readers up to speed on the wide variety of ice melting products.  

Popular science and technology have caught up to the world of ice melting products. Walk into any retail store across the country while snow is in the forecast and you will see exactly what I am talking about.   Instead of a few snow shovels and rock salt, consumers are now met with a wide range of options when looking to melt away that pesky Ice and Snow associated with old man winter. Rock Salt, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride and the list goes on and on. As your expert on the subject, I will help find the best ice melting product for your individual needs.

The Basic Principal. Potassium chloride, rock salt, magnesium chloride and calcium chloride are the most common ice-melting salts used today. Ice melters are not naturally hot; they do not melt ice as the term suggests, but rather, they act to depress or lower the freezing point of the snow or ice upon which they are spread. This allows the salt or chemical particles to bore their way through ice and form a layer of brine under the surface, which helps the top layer of ice to break up. If the brine is able to remain in place, it will continue to melt any snow or ice that comes in contact with it.

Rock Salt. Rock salt is the product that is most commonly associated with melting snow and ice. Rock salt is mined from the earth and is by far the cheapest ice melting product on the market. Be wary though as there are several draw backs. As with any salt water application, corrosion is something to keep in mind. When using rock salt, do your best to keep it away from metal doors, concrete containing rebar and thoroughly rise your shovel with tap water as soon as you are finished. Also keep in mind that the brine solution associated with Rock Salt can work its way into planting beds and actually burn the roots of surround plantings and turf. Further, Rock Salt has a tendency to evaporate quickly and present the need for frequent re-application.  Multiple applications creates a freeze-thaw-freeze effect which can do serious damage to your concrete, red brick and pavers. If rock salt is your only option, I recommend removing the slushy residue as soon as possible. Rock Salt is a relatively fast ice melting product but is basically useless in temperatures lower than 20 degrees. Lastly, do not use rock salt in areas where your pets will be tracking. Rock Salt can work its way into an animals paws and actually eat away at their skin.

Calcium Chloride.

Calcium Chloride is one of the most effective all around ice melting products. Unlike rock salt, calcium chloride absorbs moisture from its surroundings and actually releases heat as it changes from a solid to a liquid allowing it to form a potent brine solution. Calcium Chloride works in temperatures as low as -25 degrees fahrenheit and leaves a brine residue instead of the chalky salt residue left behind by rock salt. Further, a 50 pound bag of Calcium Chloride does about twice the area of a 50 pound bag of rock salt, however can cost up to three times as much.

Magnesium Chloride.

Magnesium Chloride is considered (by some) as the best total ice-melter. It is less corrosive on metal surfaces, protects concrete from spalling, is less toxic and environmentally as safe as Calcium Chloride and much less corrosive than Sodium Chloride (rock salt). Magnesium Chloride is effective to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, is less irritating to the skin, is effective as a preventative application, safe to use around animals but will become diluted more rapidly.

Potassium Chloride and Urea.

Potassium Chloride and Urea are common ice melters that are often perceived as safe products to use around vegetation. Both need to be used at a slightly higher rate of application, with Urea melting to 15 F and Potassium Chloride melting to 12 F. Urea does not contain chlorides, so it is less corrosive and safer for use on concrete containing rebar and around steel structures. This is one of the preferred ice melters for airports. Both product are readily available. Due to its high nitrogen content, Urea will further provide a lush burst of growth in surrounding planting areas.

When shopping, take notice of the interesting names and claims on the products. Everything on the market today either contains the products mentioned above or a mixture of the products mentioned above. Don’t be fooled by fancy additives or a flashy label. As always, buy the best one that you can afford, stay safe and don’t hesitate to post any questions in the comments section below. 

As always, the best way to subscribe to this blog, and get these cutting edge reports delivered via email…. AS SOON AS THEY ARE POSTED is by clicking on the link to the right!

Lundholm Landscaping
Cape May, New Jersey
Office 609-898-9136
Cell/text 609-722-1814
Email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com
Www.lundholmlandscaping.com

Writing and Education is a HUGE Priority for Lundholm Landscaping. Check out my 2012 Blog results, going to be hard to top!

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

600 people reached the top of Mt. Everest in 2012. This blog got about 2,200 views in 2012. If every person who reached the top of Mt. Everest viewed this blog, it would have taken 4 years to get that many views.

Click here to see the complete report.

Landscape Design Basics: Stage 3- Bringing the Design Together

Thanks for checking back in with me.  We are currently working on a series of articles taking you inside my mind as a design a custom landscape.  Here’s a quick summary of what we’ve learned so far…

Stage 1:  Determined homeowner needs and vision for the project.  In this example, we are actually working in my own back yard…  literally.  I took a series of digital pictures from several different angles.  Finally I took detailed measurements while preparing a very rough sketch.

Stage 2:  We determined the highlights and components of the project, analyzed the pictures and prepared a scale drawing of the work area.  Drawing the work area to scale is important because it assures us that all of our components will be the right size as well as placed in the appropriate places.

Today, we discuss Stage 3!  This is the most important step in the design process  and illustrates my process for picking materials, finalizing all details and getting ready to create a finished drawing.

I’m going to start this stage by describing my exact thought process as I do a virtual tour of this project in my mind.

First, I want the area to be private and screened to my neighbors.  The neighbor’s house is very nice and well maintained but is a summer rental.  It’s important that we are not on display in our new outdoor living room, especially to strangers during the rental season.  This project will feature 2 entrances, one that will be inviting to our guests as they approach our parking area and a second that will act as back door as it leads to our raised vegetable garden as well as the kids trampoline/gymnastics area.

As visitors drive into our driveway, the custom arbor will immediately catch the eye.  This view will feature the arbor(highlighted at night with subtle uplights) and a 4′ high Privet hedge screening.  Because of the limited view into this outdoor living room, guests curiosity will be peaked as the entrance will be extremely inviting.  The combination of attractive plantings, seasonal colors,  dark green surrounding privacy evergreens and partial views of the custom outdoor fireplace will be irresistible.  Large, flat flag stone inlaid into the lawn will act as a door mat  leading directly into the fireplace area.  A flag stone patio will create a hard surface for adirondack chairs for direct fire front viewing.  The addition of a bistro table will offer us the opportunity to enjoy a meal in our new outdoor living room.  All seating will face the fireplace and be accented with thick, inviting cushions and pillows.  After the entrance experience, the eye will immediately be drawn to a hammock area.  The hammock area will separate the outdoor living room from our vegetable garden area.  Construction materials will match the entrance arbor with flag stone underneath to provide footing for climbing in and out of hammock.

Below are sample photos for the fireplace, arbor and hammock and flag stone.  I will add my own unique design elements but these pictures will provide a visual reference for what we are trying to accomplish.

This is an example of the arbor that I have in mind.    This landscape is a little overgrown for what we have planned but this is an excellent example of how nature and basic carpentry can create an inviting entrance.

Quite a bit more extravagant than the Home Depot special, this outdoor fire place makes a substantial statement in being the focal point of the project.  Our construction technique will consist of a frame kit with a stacked stone veneer.  Ours will not be quite as tall but will feature a custom, personalized mantle piece.

This is where I will spend the majority of my Sundays this summer listening to the Phillies games dreaming of my next project.  The construction details will match the entrance arbor.  Since we are going for a rustic theme, wood surfaces will be left untreated so to weather.

This is my exact vision of the entrance and patio area.  I love the rustic look and colors.  The stone used on the fire place will match the color(s) of the flag stone.    As illustrated here, the stone will be inset into the grass so that a lawn mower can easily roll over the stone so not create any gashes.

I hope the project is beginning to make sense.  I can picture the entire finished area in my mind as if I were standing there right now.  At this point, I am ready to sit down and put my entire work of art into a working drawing.

As you can see, I love extreme change in the landscape.  I pride myself on being able to listen to a homeowners needs, picking up cues from the property and coming up with an efficient, professional plan.  The majority of my customers pick up on my passion and usually entrust me by saying… “Just bring your vision to life”.

My design services range from rustic back yard living rooms to extreme outdoor kitchens and way beyond.  As always, I am up to the minute on cutting edge hardscaping and pavers materials and practices, retaining walls, seating areas, state of the art irrigation, landscape lighting, custom planting and garden design, landscape lighting, annuals, perennials, water features, ponds and basically anything else you can imagine.

To have future blogs sent directly to your email inbox, simply click on the link to the right titled…  ”Landscaping Tips Delivered”.  As soon as the blog is posted, it lands directly in your inbox!  It couldn’t be easier.

If you think you are ready for an “Extreme Landscape Makeover”, it’s a great time to get started.  Contact me in any of the following ways…

Rob Lundholm

Lundholm Landscaping

P.O. Box 1066

Cape May, NJ 08204

office phone 609-898-9136

Cell/text 609-722-1814

email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

Landscape Design Made Simple: Stage 2- Analyzing Details and Putting Ideas on Paper

It’s December 3rd, 2012 and it’s time to continue on with our Landscape Design Series.

We made the decision to take a part of our back yard and turn it into a fire pit/outdoor entertaining type area.  That’s correct, I am taking you into my own back yard.

To summarize, Stage 1 of my design process dealt with analyzing the proposed work area, taking measurements, photos and a sit down interview( my wife and I in this case) to determine the homeowners vision for the project.

Since I posted Stage 1 of my design process, I have analyzed all aspects of my project and came up with the following design criteria…

-Fire Pit needs to be large enough to be the focal point of this project

-Materials to be natural stone to blend in with the surrounding woods and overall theme

-Flag Stone Patio to be constructed of large jaggged pieces of flag stone with grass in between. Pieces need to be large enough for adirondack chairs

-Project area to be partially surrounded by a privacy planting

-Entrance to project area to be framed by wood arbor and Flag Stone Walkway

-Hammock Pergola to be constructed to match entrance arbor

-Trampoline to be relocated to edge of project area so that it can be viewed from fire pit area but not the focal point

-Project to connect with raised planter area with more raised planters to be added

Below is a series of pictures with a brief explanation of my thought process as I view the individual photos.

This picture represents the entrance to the project area.  The Vitex(multi stem tree on the left side) will be relocated to another area.  The Japanese Holly(small round evergreens) will be replaced with Privet maintained at a height of 4 feet.  Privet will provide a rapid growing privacy hedge but will be transparent in winter as leaves drop off in early winter.  Emerald Green Arborvitae(upright evergreen shown on left edge of picture) will continue to wrap around the outside edge of the project area to provide privacy from the neighboring house.  The arbor will be centered in this opening with flag stone walkway leading into the fire pit area.

This view represents the view from the edge of our driveway.  We spend a lot of time in this area growing vegetables in the raised planter and watching the kids on the trampoline..  My design will move the trampoline out of direct sight, add at least 2 more raised planters and section off the two areas with the hammock pergola and additional plantings.  This view also represents the need for a privacy hedge as the neighboring house and living room are immediately adjacent.  When the trampoline is relocated, it will be anchored with a system that is much more attractive than cinder block and have measures taken to keep grass from growing underneath.

This view shows the woods in the back ground.  My vision is to keep a portion of that view in tact.  This view also shows the need to keep firewood neat and organized

A few other logistical items that I need to factor in are running electric to the hammock/pergola area for Christmas lights, a garden hose connection(s), landscape lighting and speaker wire for outdoor speakers with volume control.  Even if I don’t plan to install my speakers or landscape lighting at this point, I suggest running the wire while the project site is torn apart.  The landscape lighting and outside speakers are expensive but the wiring is relatively cheap.

This is what I call my “Blank Slate”.  My drawing shown above is a scale drawing showing my exact work area and all of the items that I plan to leave in place.  If you look closely on the bottom right hand corner, you will notice that my scale is 1 inch equals 5 feet.  That simply means that 1 inch on paper represents 5 feet of actual land.  Drawing things to scale helps me arrange all of my components so that everything fits and is appropriately spaced.  Once my design is complete and drawn out, I will use this as a working drawing and use these scale measurements when laying out my actual work area.

In the next stage, I will walk you through how I put my ideas and measurements into an actual working drawing and tie it all together with sample photos.  This is where it gets good!

Rather than wait to see when my blogs are posted, feel free to join over 500 others who receive my posts directly to their email inbox.  It’s as easy as clicking on the link to the right titled “Landscaping Tips Delivered” and follow the tips for signing up.  I will never send any spam or junk emails.

Have a question???  Comment???  Feel free to post at the bottom of this blog.  If you need a landscape design and or installation, please don’t hesitate to contact me in any of the following ways…

Rob Lundholm

Lundholm Landscaping, LLC

P.O. Box 1066

Cape May, New Jersey 08204

Office Phone 609-898-9136

Cell/Text 609-722-1814

Fax 609-770-3035

email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

Make it a great day!

Landscape Design Made Simple

As things begin to wind down in the landscaping world, I consider this a great time to start planning for next year. Each year, I like to take an area of my property and completely change it. This year, I have decided to add a KICK ASS outdoor fire pit with slate patio and hammock area. I’m going to work the progress of my project into a DO IT YOURSELF home landscape design series.

Today’s blog is the first of many on my personal process of designing a landscape. I start with a very detailed sit down session with the client. We start with some basic questions such as…

What do you like about your existing landscape?

What do you dislike about your existing landscape?

What made you decide that you wanted to do this project?

Are you giving me carte blanche on this design or would you like to be involved?

How do you see yourself using the proposed area?

How much money do you have to spend on this project?

After taking detailed notes from the sit down session, we then take a long, slow walk around the proposed area. I take detailed measurements and make a rough sketch. Once our interview and walk through sessions are complete, I walk the entire property and take several photos of the outside of the property. My final step in this first stage is to go back inside of the house and take more photos from the inside of the house looking out.

At this point, I have everything I need and I am ready to sit down and do my actual design. I always do my design as quickly as I can so that the ideas are fresh in my mind.

My next posting in this series will take you inside my mind as I complete an actual landscape design! Stay tuned….

If you would like to subscribe to my blog and have this and future blogs delivered directly to your email inbox, click on the link in the right hand margin titled “Landscaping Tips Delivered”.

Tired of looking at your landscape and want the most cutting edge landscape design, contact me in any of the following ways…

Rob Lundholm
Lundholm Landscaping
Office phone (609)898-9136
Cell/text(609)722-1814
Email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

UPDATED! 10 Insider Secrets to a Perfect Lawn, Step 10 of 10

Today is the final posting in the UPDATED! 10 Insider Secrets to a Perfect Lawn presented by Rob Lundholm of Lundholm Landscaping.  I have actually run out of things to write about in the category so I decided to make Step 10 a review of the previous 9 steps.

I decided to a few months back that I was sick to my stomach of watching homeowners get brainwashed by big companies into thinking that a healthy lawn needs to be fed 6 times every season and that chemicals, pesticides and herbicides are essential in creating and maintaining a healthy lawn.  I’ve seen the future of lawn care and it is the complete opposite of what homeowners are being sold by fancy ads and loads of shallow promises.  My plan teaches homeowners how to build a healthy lawn by creating healthy soil.  With healthy soil, there exists a self defense system which wards off unwanted pests and creates soil and grass that is so healthy that there is no room for weeds.  Lastly, we will have created a vigorous root system which uses significantly less water and stands up to the challenge of heat, drought and stress!

 

In creating perfect soil, we need good soil texture.  Dig a hole anywhere on your property to a depth of about 6 inches.  Grab a handful of soil, close your hand forming the soil into a ball.  The soil should now easily break apart in your hand. 

Now that we have identified our soil texture, lets test our soil to make sure that the pH(potential of hydrogen) is in the proper range.  Cool season grasses prefer a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.  PH out of this range can effect the availabilty of certain micro and macro nutrients and create major problems.  Contact your local State University Extension Center to purchase a soil test kit.

We carefully followed my “Fool Proof” tips for collecting a soil sample, carefully packaged the sample and sent if off to the lab.  We waited a few weeks, received our test results and carefully read and analyzed the test results. 

You may, or may not have a few issues to correct with your soil.  The most common having to do with lowering or raising pH.  Our next step was to create a plan for correcting our soil problems.  We integrated our pH correction in with our normal late summer/early fall practices. 

Late summer/early fall maintenance includes aerating your entire lawn, top dressing with 1/2 inch of premium compost and overseeding using a power seeder.  This process opens up the soil which allows  air and water to reach into the root zone as well as replenishes valuable nutrients which may have been depleted over the years.  Using a power seeder injects seed into the soil which eliminates the possibilty seed being washed away, blown away or eaten by birds.

Once we finished our soil correction and fall maintenance, we took a close look at our equipment.  We learned that it is imperative to cut our lawn at a height of 3 inches and to always, always, always leave the grass clippings on the lawn.  It goes without saying that a sharp lawn mower blade and a clean mower deck are of utmost importance when maintaining our “Perfect Lawn”. 

Once we established our perfect lawn, my feeding regimen revealed the shocking truth about the ease and simplicity of keeping our perfect lawn looking good and thriving…  without chemicals.  Three applications of a bio-nutritional type fertilizer is all it takes. 

From here, I threw in a few nuggets of wisdom, from my bag of tricks, in the area of cutting/edging techniques as well as the “Proper” way to maintain our engines and vast array of power equipment. 

Finally, it was a piece of cake rounding out our program with a few simple steps to winterize our new “Perfect Lawn”.  This step involves a final feeding, cutting the grass down to 2 inches and keeping the lawn free of fallen leaves.

There we have it!  Follow my instructions to the letter and you will be the envy of your neighborhood.  You will save money, have incredible health and know that you have created a lawn that will give you many years of enjoyment.

Please use and share this information as you see fit.  If you have any questions, comments or concerns, feel free to post in the comment section at the bottom of this page or send me an email directly to rob@lundholmlandscaping.com.  I do my best to respond as quickly as possible.

If you have a landscaping need or want to be the envy of your neighborhood without actually doing the work, I will be happy to discuss your needs.  Contact me in any of the following ways….

Lundholm Landscaping

P.O. Box 1066

Cape May, NJ 08204

Office 609-898-9136

Cell/text 609-722-1814

email rob@lundholmlandscaping.com

lundholmlandscaping.com

Think Green!